HOLGA NIGHTS - LONG EXPOSURE
HOLGA camera's fitted with a cable release allow the shutter to be held open for any amount of time. With a long shutter speed, interesting lighting, colors, and effects, such as light trails occur. Many photos taken under these conditions are surreal artworks very different to daytime shots.
This photo below was taken under only the moon and stars, requiring roughly an hour long exposure for the moon to illuminate the film. if you want to make stars in the nighttime sky look like glowing rings as the earth rotates, your exposure may last all night. it is best to experiment
[camera] - holga 120S with Cable Release
[film] - 400ISO color negative
[artist] - damien loverso
[title] - moonlight pine
[description]
this shot may seem as though it was taken in daylight, although only the sublte moonlight was available to shine light onto the film. the holga's shutter was held open for roughly 1 hour to really soak up the surroundings.
A tripod is essential for long exposure photography to keep the camera steady. Also try painting with light, using a small torch to
Black and White ISO-50 film for taking such photos.shine light on objects in the shot.
Some great effects and shutter speeds to try are: car light trails at night: 10 seconds amusement rides: 5 seconds neon signs glow somewhere between 15 seconds waterfalls during daylight: 3 seconds or more swirling stars: several hours http://adcuz.co.uk/how-to-articles/how-to-create-a-long-exposure-photo/ http://www.thenocturnes.com/resources.html <<< AMAZING RESOURCES
[camera] - holga 120S with Cable Release
[film] - 400ISO color negative
[artist] - damien loverso
[title] - moonlight pine
[description]
[camera] - holga 120S with Cable Release
[film] - 400ISO color negative
[artist] - damien loverso
[title] - midnight boat
[description]
Shooting at night - What you need:
- HOLGA with cable release (bulb setting) - buy one now!
- Tripod
- Film (400 speed film is recommended for low light shots)
- Torch
- Timer
- A warm jumper!
Timing Guide:
(this is only a guide and experimentation and practise is the key)
My best advice, assuming that you don't have a light meter, would be to read Fred Parkers guide to estimating exposure http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm then hit google looking for a reciprocity chart for the film you are planning on using.
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